Local Etiquette

Syrians are, by wide agreement among visitors, extraordinarily hospitable — you will be offered tea more often than you can drink it. Courtesy here is mostly common sense carried out attentively.

Dress

Modest dress is expected of everyone, not only of women.

Women are comfortable in loose trousers, long skirts or dresses, with arms and legs covered. A headscarf is not required in the street in Damascus, but carry one — you will need it to enter a mosque.

Men should wear long trousers. Shorts are unusual on adult men in public and read as out of place; sleeveless tops likewise.

Standards vary by neighbourhood. Central Damascus is more relaxed than a conservative quarter or a small town, and you will notice the difference quickly once you are looking.

In mosques

• Remove your shoes before stepping onto the prayer carpet.
• Women cover their hair. At the Umayyad Mosque an abaya is required and can be borrowed at the entrance.
• Do not walk in front of someone who is praying.
• Avoid visiting during the Friday midday prayer unless you have been invited.
• Keep your voice down, and silence your phone.

Photography

Ask before photographing people — always, and particularly women. A refusal is not rudeness and should be accepted without argument.

Do not photograph military sites, checkpoints, government buildings or personnel. This is the one etiquette breach with consequences beyond embarrassment. Inside mosques, ask before photographing; some permit it and some do not.

Everyday courtesies

• Greet people before getting to the point. Skipping straight to a question reads as brusque.
• Use your right hand for eating and for passing things.
• Accept tea or coffee when offered. Refusing outright can seem cold; a small amount is fine.
• Public displays of affection are out of place.
• Do not point at people.
• Take your shoes off when entering a home, unless told otherwise.

Conversation

Syrians may speak openly about recent history, but let them lead. Do not press someone on politics, the war, or what happened to their family. If a conversation turns that way, follow rather than steer.