Accommodation

Damascus has an unusual asset: a stock of Ottoman-era courtyard houses in the Old City that have been restored as small hotels. Staying in one is a large part of the experience of the city.

Booking is the hard part

Expect friction. Sanctions kept Syrian businesses off the international booking platforms for years, and although that is easing, many properties still cannot take a card payment from abroad.

In practice this means:

• Many hotels are booked by phone, WhatsApp or email, and confirmed without a deposit.
• Payment is usually cash on arrival, frequently in US dollars.
• Listings on international sites may be outdated, or may not accept your booking.
• A local operator or a contact in the city can often arrange a room faster than you can.

Budget for paying in cash, and factor it into what you bring.

What is available

Restored courtyard houses in the Old City — the distinctive option. Rooms open onto a central courtyard with a fountain and citrus trees; several occupy buildings centuries old. They are small, so they fill.

Conventional city hotels outside the walls, in the modern districts. Less atmosphere, more predictable facilities.

Family and community hosting is common, particularly for visitors with relatives in the country. If you are offered a room, understand that refusing can cause offence.

Choosing where to stay

Staying inside or beside the Old City puts the Umayyad Mosque, the souqs and most of what you have come to see within walking distance, which matters more here than usual given how much of the pleasure is in wandering.

Ask before booking about electricity and water. Supply is not continuous everywhere; many hotels run a generator, and knowing the schedule is more useful than being surprised by it.

Checking in

You will be asked for your passport, and your details will be registered. This is normal. Keep the passport with you afterwards rather than leaving it at reception.